Better Than Stock
(click on the image for Wiring diagram)
My experiences with the 5 1/4 Bazookas was one of extreme simplicity. I am creating this page to verify the fact that they do fit. I worked in the car audio business when it was first starting to really roll back in 1986. So you get my self proclaimed expert opinion.
Headin it up...
The stock head unit was the Panasonic AM/FM cassete deck (Model 1267) in my 92 B package. Using the stock unit in southern California is appealing because of the high volume of theft of after market radios.
The way to the AMPS.
In my configuration, I used a P.A.C. High to low level converter and wired them from the stock stereo outputs . to the input channels an the EQ. The E.Q. is an older Sony XK-8 slider 9 band equalizer with a 250/120 sub crossover. I highly suggest the use of some type of sound processor. Preferably one thae takes a set of inputs and has 3 types of outputs: FRONT REAR, and SUBWOOFER. This provides the ability to add amplification. The amplifiers I added were one Sony XM 4040 for the stock speaker locations and one Sony XM 6020 for the Bazookas. The FRONT RCA leads went from the E.Q to the front half of the 4040. The REAR RCA leads went from the E.Q to the back half of the 4040. The SUBWOOFER RCA leads went from the E.Q. to the 6020. Run the three sets of RCA cables and an accessory hot (to turn on the amp) back along the center console and under the ashtray and armrest, wrapping behind the passenger seat, stuff the wires through the cabin trunk tunnel. I suggest cheaper thin RCA wires as opposed to the shielded Monster cables. The smaller ones fit easier and never break at the ends. Monster Cables are all show and no go....But if you do buy them , you might want to carry a soldering iron and pull a generator around by the new hitch you have to get.
AMP info
If you are only adding subwoofers to the stock system, you will only need an amp for it. It will still sound allright, the stock amp is not bad. I suggest adding full amplification. The Sony amplifiers that I use are both of the older XM series, and since then that series of amps have only become cheaper a better. The new ones are 1 ohm stable. I think the older series looked better though. Sony stuff is good, I never had any problems with it, and relatively its cheap. I suggest : Fosgate, Precision Power, ADS(if they are still around, they make a 6 channel amp...perfect for this app),Sony and Alpine. Get at least 30 watts per channel from the american stuff, and at least 60 watts per channel from the Asian goodies. All power outputs should be measured at 4 ohms. If you get a 1 Ohm amp and it is stable briged into 2 ohms, get one of those and brige it into 2 parrallel wired tubes.
Back to the Speakers
You are basically intercepting the speaker leads and plugging an amp into the stock wires. Run 2 pair (4 sets of two) speaker wires up from the amplifiers to behind the radio along the same path as the RCA's and Triger. Have a 1.5 volt battery handy to test the speaker leads. To test for polarity look at the speaker and breifly touch its leads to the battery positive and negative. If you have it right, the speaker wil come out at you. Follow the manufacturers installation instructions for the amplifiers. Make all of your connections, Use 10 gauge wire for the power and ground. I suggest using a short wire for the ground, crimp on a ring and use a self taping metal screw. Make sure to scrape all of the paint and primer away from where the ring contacts the metal. A good ground will give you the best performance and keep your amps cooler than a weak one. Slide your base tubes up through the cabin trunk tunnels. On the driver side you will have to remove the fuel filler tube. This requires a 10MM socket and a philips screwdriver. Use 6.0 Micro Ferrad (mF) coils(crossovers) or bigger on the bazookas, I just taped mine on to the end of the bazooka and then ran the leads out of the coils into the terminal of the bazooka.
Dialing it in..
Turn your gains all the way down on the amps, turn the leads all the way down on the High/Low converters, and turn the radio volume 90 percent up. Now adjust the High/Low converters to where you think you are about 90 percent to clip (distortion). Use your best judgement. Now that your neighbors hate you, turn the radio down and adjust the gains on the amps/amp to balance out the sound. You will still have alot of controll from the deck with the base nob and the fader. Although the stock speakers do sound good, replacing them with upgraded coaxials will make your new system shine. No one will know you have a great sounding system with plenty of kick and lots of volume for those top down freeway days, by the looks of your stock deck.
Breakdown..
Total costs ($668) were: $239 for the 4040, $169 for the 6020, $180 for the bazookas, $40 for the high/low converters, $20 for the coils, and $20 for cables.